Farmers' MONPE Yotsume Design Flock of Crows/Red/Bed of Eels
Hand-printed stencil designs by Yotsume Dyeing Cloth House
Comfortable summer with Takashima chijimi
This is a collaboration monpe featuring katazome designs created by Yotsume Dyeing Cloth House (Kure, Hiroshima) and hand-printed designs by Baba Dyeing Factory (Fushimi, Kyoto).
The katazome designs, which are difficult to produce in medium quantities because everything is done by hand, are introduced by replacing them with the hand-printing technique. This exhibition introduces the design work of Yotsume Dyeing Cloth House, as well as the concept of katazome (stencil dyeing) and what is hand-printing? What is hand-printing? I hope to convey what is katazome and what is hand-printing.
What is katazome?
Katazome" is a dyeing technique in which a pattern is dyed on a fabric using a patterned paper pattern and dye-proof paste. The pattern is expressed by placing the stencil on the fabric, applying antiseptic glue, and dyeing the rest of the fabric.
What is te-printing?
Te-printing" is a dyeing technique in which a pattern is transferred using a gauze-covered stencil. The plate has holes through which dye passes according to the pattern, and the pattern is expressed by directly copying the pattern by stroking ink on the plate.
Hand-printing stencil dyeing. Trial and Error
In stencil dyeing, a technique called "bousouzome" is used to dye a continuous pattern on a long fabric, so glue is left on the areas that are not to be dyed.When this is done at the Baba Dyeing Factory, where hand-printing is done, plates are made for each color, and the plates are dyed by repeating the process. The repeated plates overlap each other, resulting in a darker color in that part of the fabric. This is called "mold cracking," which is usually not considered a good thing, and the design is usually changed to smooth out the joints between the plates.
Therefore, we considered changing the design of the cracks, but our first goal was to "make the best use of the design as it is". We thought that by leaving the darker areas without changing the design, the difference between stencil dyeing and hand-printing would be born. The resulting fabric did not show the overlapping of dyeing so much.
Manufacturing is carried out daily through such exchanges and trial-and-error. Through this collaboration MONPE, we hope to introduce both stencil dyeing and hand printing techniques.
Left: "Yotsume Dyeing Cloth House" katazome stencil
Right: "Baba Dyeing Factory" hand-printed stencil
Takashima Chijimi
Takashima chijimi is an uneven fabric called Takashima chijimi.
This cotton chijimi (cotton crepe) fabric has been woven since the Edo period in the Takashima area of Shiga Prefecture, located northwest of Lake Biwa. It is made using a weaving technique called plain weave, the same as Kurume Kasuri. The weft threads are strongly twisted and the woven fabric is shrunken to produce the characteristic "shibo" (unevenness on the surface of the fabric).
This unevenness reduces the area in contact with the skin, so the fabric does not stick to the skin even when perspiring, and a smooth texture can be enjoyed. It also has excellent air permeability and quick-drying properties, and is stretchable in the horizontal direction, making it comfortable to wear.
Honjo Orimu (Takashima chijimi fabric production and sales / Takashima City, Shiga Prefecture, Japan)
Honjo Orimono Co., Ltd. was founded in 1950 by Mr. Kanji Honjo, a gardener, with four shuttle looms for winter work, and incorporated in 1962. The company shifted from cotton flannel to the production of Takashima chijimi fabric, and currently weaves Takashima chijimi and industrial materials on approximately 40 air-jet looms. Takashima City, where Honjo Orimono is located, is northwest of Lake Biwa, and is a cotton textile production center that integrates yarn twisting and processing, weaving, dyeing, and sewing. Honjo Orimu is responsible for the weaving process and supports the textile industry in the Takashima area by meeting the needs of a wide range of fields, such as supplying fabrics for apparel and industrial materials.
Farmers' MONPE" follows the traditional monpe
This MONPE has overall relaxed lines similar to the shape of old-fashioned MONPE. Compared to modern-style MONPE, it has a wider silhouette around the hips and from the knees to the calves. It is recommended for those who want to wear it loosely, for those who use it for work or exercise, and for those who are concerned about the narrowness below the knees of modern-style MONPE.
Modern-style MONPE" developed by Eel's Bed has a slimmer and slimmer silhouette around the hips and below the knees. This " Farmer's MONPE " has a looser silhouette, more similar to the old-fashioned MONPE. It is the best relaxing wear that lets you know the history and at the same time can be worn without feeling tight.
You can tell the difference in size and fabric.
［Click here to see [How to choose MONPE
|
Awarded year |
Good Design Award 2016 |
|
Subject of Award |
Clothing [MONPE]. |
|
Award-winning company |
Eel Bedding Co. |
|
Fabric Production |
Honjo Orimono Co. Baba Dyeing Factory Yotsume Dyeing Cloth House |
|
Design |
Takahiro Shiromizu |
|
Size and weight |
S , M, L (separate size chart available) Size M weight: approx. 180g |
|
Material |
100% cotton |
|
Specifications |
・Total elastic waist |
|
Care |
Because these pants are made of natural fibers, they may shrink slightly when washed. |
|
Country of origin |
Japan |
Basic Specifications
Size Chart】 【Size Chart
|
Size(cm) |
S |
M |
L |
|
Pants Length |
96 |
97 |
101 |
|
Waist (adaptive dimensions) |
64-98 |
65-108 |
68-115 |
|
Hip (Applicable size) |
80-105 |
87-110 |
92-120 |
|
Armpit Width |
32 |
35.5 |
38 |
|
Inseam |
28 |
30 |
31 |
|
Inseam |
70 |
70 |
71 |
|
Calf (height of approx. 25cm from hem) |
43 |
46 |
51 |
|
Hem width |
16 |
17 |
20 |
Unisex size
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